Mississippi’s sweet potato industry is cashing in on its sobriquet as “Sweet Potato Capital of the World.”
Lately, I have seen sweet potatoes featured in ad after ad for these newfangled businesses that ship boxed-up, ready-to-eat meals that are designed for young marrieds and other 20- and 30-somethings on the go who simply do not have the time — or won’t take it — to come home after working and whip up a sit-down family dinner (as did many of our mommas).
They depend on the Fed-Exes and UPSes of the world to bring these microwavable or oven-warmed full meals to their door. They scoop them up, throw them in the warming unit and dinner is served.
I cannot say for sure how long the nutritious sweet potatoes — mainly in the form of fried potatoes — have been in this market, but I am seeing more and more of these ads, obviously much to the delight of farmers in and around Vardaman and Calhoun County, where the industry is centered.
My farming grandfather grew sweet potatoes on his Amite County farm in Southwest Mississippi in the early 20th century, as did his father and grandfather, and they were an almost daily staple. These McDowell ancestors were artful agriculturists, which is why they were successful growing sweet potatoes on ground that was not exactly the crème de la crème of Mississippi soils. That is pretty much the story in many other areas not known for the well-drained sandy soil that researchers say is best for the product.
One uncle told me he ate enough sweet potatoes in his childhood that he swore them off for years. Later on, he discovered “sweet potato fries” much to his liking.
Mississippi’s sweet potato industry is produced on some 20,000 acres in the north central region of the state and a few other areas. The state ranks second in the U.S. in production, according to the Extension Service at Mississippi State University, which provides the needed research for improving sweet potato production. The crop has an estimated $90 million farm-gate value, spreading money all over Calhoun County and the state from farm to table.
Vardaman celebrates the sweet potato each fall (or did before COVID-19) with an annual festival that features various activities including the crowning of local royalty, the Sweet Potato King and Queen. The fest is similar to Belzoni’s Catfish Festival or the Blessing of the Fleet along the Gulf Coast.
This unique Mississippi industry also got superb recognition in the food section of The New York Times in November. Vardaman native and author April McGreger was quoted as saying, “Nothing is more nostalgic than the caramelized smell when sweet potatoes are bubbling out.”
“For generations of Southerners, White and Black, who grew up in rural areas and then moved to metropolitan areas …. November means securing sweet potatoes, preferably shimmering in dirt, for holiday meals,” wrote The Times’ Nicole Taylor in the article.
Numerous farm production regions across America are peculiar to the growing of certain crops like the Vardaman sweet potato. Georgia’s Vidalia onion production is a prime example.
By state law, “Vidalia onions” can be grown only in a few counties of that state to be called “Vidalia,” where no- or low-sulfur in the soil is the main consideration. Research shows, however, that one can grow a carbon copy of the real thing wherever soils are devoid of sulfur.
It’s high time for all Mississippians to sit up and take prideful notice at the sight of boxes of “Mississippi-Grown Sweet Potatoes” in markets everywhere, or at hearing their mention on the national airwaves.
Mac Gordon is a part-time resident of McComb. He is a former farm editor. He can be reached at macmarygordon@gmail.com.
